Quarto giorno (di A. Fiorin)
Monday, 02 November 2009 15:50
There are no translations available.

 Pronti, attenti, via!
Alle ore 5.59, con l'aurora che sta lentamente spegnendo le stelle in cielo, una brezza più fresca del previsto battezza il nostro viaggio. Le gambe cominciano a frullare, la strada si fa viaggio e il viaggio sarà, ricerca, fatica e stupore.


La tappa odierna è insolita, una sorta di eccezione rispetto quella che sarà la nostra regola, cioè pedinare il Nilo, nostro compagno di viaggio di questi giorni. Oggi invece nostro compagno sarà il deserto, non vedremo mai i flutti del fiume dorato ma pedaleremo tra i marosi delle dune, anzi nella calma piatta di questo mare di sabbia e sassi. La nostra meta odierna è l'oasi di Al Fayum, una delle zone verdi più estese dell'Egitto, larga 70 km e lunga 60, un vero e proprio microcosmo in cui è possibile ammirare fra i più bei paesaggi del paese. E si può addirittura affermare a buon diritto che questa tappa sia tecnicamente in discesa, dato che il Cairo si trova a 74 metri sul livello del mare e l'arrivo, ad Al Fayum, è una depressione a -45 metri sul livello del mare. Ma allora è proprio un vizio, per noi viaggiatori in bicicletta, andare alla ricerca delle depressioni più profonde della terra! Nel lungo viaggio effettuato nel 2001 da Venezia a Pechino siamo infatti passati per Turpan e i suoi terribili 45 gradi della seconda depressione nel mondo a -154 metri, poi nel 2004 abbiamo provato la nostra resistenza confrontandoci a pedali con il Mar Morto e i suoi -408 asfissianti metri s.l.m. E oggi ci misureremo con questa ulteriore conca, seppur ingentilita da un paesaggio – dicono - da favola. Con corsi d'acqua, campi irrigati e perfettamente coltivati a canna da zucchero, verdure, agrumi, noci e olivi, grazie anche all'azione benefica del fiume Bahr Yusuf, affluente del Nilo e che gli scorre parallelo per diversi chilometri.
Ma intanto stiamo pedalando su questa striscia d'asfalto dritta come un fuso che punta verso sud-ovest. Il traffico è decente, mano a mano che ci allontaniamo dalla capitale la nostra carreggiata si svuota e inversamente si popola quella in direzione Cairo. Certo, saremo anche alle sei di mattina ma il traffico è decisamente tutt'altra cosa rispetto ai primi tre giorni, per fortuna. Assistiamo comunque inorriditi a sorpassi azzardati, a mezzi motorizzati in fin di vita ma che trasportano ancora, suturati con fili di ferro e spaghi da abili chirurghi meccanici, persone e cose. In numero esorbitante. Ecco che sta avvenendo il miracolo: il rapimento del viaggio che ci sta montando dentro, i nostri occhi avidi cercano a destra e a sinistra le prime suggestioni. Che non sono ancora particolarmente esaltanti: tralicci, inquinamento, sporcizia sui bordi delle strade. Ma in compenso l'asfalto è abbastanza buono, anzi complessivamente più che scorrevole, una bella sorpresa. Almeno per questa tappa. E poi i nostri occhi cominciano a cogliere anche flash di donne completamente velate ai bordi della strada che trascinano un bufalo nero come la loro tunica, bambini che camminano di buon passo per recarsi a scuola, vacche striminzite al limite dello sfinimento, moltissimi asinelli, un mezzo di trasporto ancora efficacissimo e diffuso. Ecco, quell'asinello grigio, piccolo ma tosto, che trasporta un padrone massiccio coperto di un caffettano bianco mi trasporta all'indietro nel tempo, al periodo del nostro Belzoni, quando lo stesso “signor B.” sosteneva che gli asinelli erano il mezzo di veloce per spostarsi in Egitto. Ecco cosa dice nel suo “Viaggio e scoperte in Egitto e Nubia, pubblicato nel 1820: “Cavalcammo degli asini, l'unico modo, e il più comodo per un europeo, per viaggiare in Egitto.” Eccolo, quell'omone sull'asino transitato nel deserto forse è proprio il suo fantasma. A proposito di fantasmi e dell'aldilà passiamo davanti a un agglomerato di costruzioni che all'inizio abbiamo scambiato per abitazioni ma poi capiamo essere un'enorme cimitero, uno dei tanti del Cairo - trasportato per comodità a quasi 30 chilometri dalla metropoli - un infinito e multicolore susseguirsi di tombe che assomiglia al fondale di cartone da spaghetti-western, insomma un enorme città dei morti allungata che ha continuato ad accompagnarci addirittura per 5 o 6 chilometri. Oggi abbiamo l'opportunità, ahinoi, di scoprire che quello che sembra un deserto assolutamente piatto è in realtà una serie continua di numerosissime salitine con relative discese, quasi fossero delle dune, di poco dislivello ma alla lunga si sentono sulle gambe. Anche perchè il tanto temuto vento che ieri abbiamo notato alzarsi quest'oggi non ci è stato per niente amico e anzi l'abbiamo avuto di trequarti per quasi tutto il tragitto. La tappa comunque, non per scelte particolari ma per poter visitare l'oasi di Al Fayum è delle più corte, un'ottantina di chilometri.
Per farla breve, partiti alle sei della mattina e superati velocemente due posti di blocco della polizia grazie all'intermediazione della nostra guida Adel e degli altri accompagnatori che da oggi si sono aggiunti (un'altra vettura al seguito con due persone che cureranno il nostro catering (non tutti i luoghi dove ci fermeremo davano garanzie di alimentazione adeguata alle esigenze di un gruppo sportivo, quindi Ramon e il suo assistente ci seguiranno per tutti i restanti giorni allestendo il pranzo al volo – lungo il percorso – e pure la cena la sera e la colazione del mattino) giungiamo alla nostra meta, nel suggestivo lago salato di Qarun, dopo 82 chilometri, alle ore 9.30, cioè l'ora in cui normalmente in questo periodo invernale ci troviamo per iniziare un'uscita domenicale. Oggi invece è l'ora in cui scendiamo di sella.
E proprio vero che tutto è relativo. Oggi è stato il primo giorno di viaggio di noi ciclisti, protetti dal pullman che ci ha scortato e anche dall'euforico Aladino che, a bordo di una motocicletta araba, ci scorterà per tutto il viaggio. Un'avventura anche per lui: sarà basilare ausilio per noi.
Dopo una salutare doccia (acqua molto fredda e molto poca) nell'albergo che ci ospita, e che definire spartano è atto di vera generosità, partiamo immediatamente in pullman per ammirare i due importanti siti archeologici di Al-Lahun e Hawara, dove abbiamo visitato le rovine delle due famose piramidi di mattoni di fango.

 

 

Note tecniche
La strada che porta dal Cairo a Al Fayum è nel complesso buona, con asfalto scorrevole, e non particolarmente trafficata, almeno per i canoni egiziani. A parte i primi 6 chilometri con vento a favore (che illusione...) abbiamo trovato sempre vento trasversale e sulla tre quarti, quasi contrario, che ci ha costretto a diminuire l'andatura e a stringere i denti. Speriamo che domani, raggiungendo il Nilo, le cose cambino e che le previsioni di venti costanti dal nord verso sud siano rispettate. Incrociamo le dita.
Cairo (piramidi di Giza) – Al Fayum: km 82, partenza ore 5.59, arrivo ore 9.30, tempo effettivo di corsa ore 3,22, media 24.4 kmh.

 

 

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Un saluto anche al mio "capo" in vacanza di lavoro.
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avatar Charolette
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avatar Mallory
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Right here are three points to think about as you set about establishing your Search Engine Optimization techniques as well as priorities for 2015.
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your whole loved ones. Absolutely nothing is incorrect tohether with wasrm to eat.
There are numerous people that live to enjoy and there are numerous
who take to call home. However the entire people won't
remain in both of the types. There aare maqny
whom love good foods, nevertheless his or her life be detemined
by thier food. Pub food Cheshire will be loved in several aras annd for anyone who iss some sort of foodstuff enthusiast, youu must
experience the level of meal you obtain here. Go to a family tavern Cheshire and you may take advantage
of the best food in addition to cocktails along with yor whole family members.
The tem pub is usually connected with grownups.
Thee greaatest pubs in the united kingdom tend to be active simply by athletics buffs that
wish to notice their own groups combat the idea away when hey sip alcohol and also
lager and so forth. But it's not needed that your children cannot
search for a club. Of course, there are a few discos that you simply
wouldn't normally want to take the kids to. Yet children nightclub Cheshire is just
not mong most of these establishments. This bar meal Chexhire within this bar is
amazing inn which every person actually reaches take pleasure iin somewhat or maybe the
opposite. This kind of loved ones tavern Cheshire provides ideal within Uk foodstuff.
You will discover some people stating which British foods seriously
isn't ust like the meal that is certsinly geared up inside other nations similar to People from france andd also The
world and others. Additionally,the particular inflow connected with American indian curris offers additionally
altered this palette of the Uniyed kingdom foodies.
But the fact iss that English meal has iits excellent style.

Consume standard Britiseh isles foods annd yyou are unqble
to support nevertheless pretty much lick your fingers. Of course, itt concerns that the cocinero
is fantastic, however whenever you go to where regarding pubb foodstuff Cheshire,
you will probably have the particular cook bein at the top off their cooking food talent.
On this loved ones pub Cheshire you obtain almost everything you want to eat and ingest.
In the refreshments portion you've got the optimum cask
beers, Uk and imported lager, cider along with an extensive number oof wines.

The meal menus can also be comprehensive so you have the
option to pick from the particular restaurant selection, the 2-for-1 menus, tthe tavern food list
plus the On the food list. Your mouth-watering meals teend to
bee sure to make you really feel more than happy.
When you would like having this particular tavern meals Cheshire, look at the internet site in addition tto check out
the actual selection. Everything which you are required will be granted inside site lijke
range to be ablle to call to make your booking. About weekdays you may get to your eating place aand find
an area, nevertheless throuth weekends, it's foolhardy
looking to find an area without a booking. No matter
the reason, it feels right to help pre-book beforehand
regardless of when you go. Read more on tthe net to sample fantastic pub
meals Cheshire. Only at that family members nightclub Cheshire you'll have
hundreds off foodstuuffs that leave anyone content.

Thee costs are usually nicely affordable, however the foods
is actually out of your earth.
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